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What are the Parts of a Mountain Bike?

September 19, 2018 by NTX Trails Leave a Comment

If you’re new to mountain biking—or simply cycling in general—you’ve probably already been bombarded by a huge lexicons of terms that make absolutely no sense to you. It seems like cyclists speak an entirely unique dialect of English, especially mountain bikers. One minute your new riding buddies sound like surfer dude transplants from southern California, the next they go all geeky on you and start throwing out a slew of mechanical and technical terms about bikes.

First up, take a deep breath and relax. There’s no need to learn everything you’ll eventually pick up over time right this moment. The more you ride your bike along the trails and hang out with other MTBer’s the more you’ll learn naturally. Like your riding skills, there’s a natural progression to your knowledge that will increase with time and experience.

So, if you have no clue about the difference between gears, sprockets, cranks, and cassettes, it’s not that big of a deal. It’s good to learn all that stuff, and we’re here to help. Check out this basic guide to mountain bike parts and components. Don’t try to memorize all of this at once. Come back from time to time to refresh your memory.

Mountain Bike Frames

As you can see in the illustration above, the parts of your bike are not really all that complicated. Whether you’re looking at a hardtail bike—one without a rear suspension—or a full suspension bike, one of the things you’ll notice right away is that a bike frame forms two triangles. In fact, the terms front triangle and rear triangle are often used to describe the two major sections of a bike’s frame.

Let’s look at the front triangle first. As you can see, it has four major parts—the top tube, down tube, seat tube, and head tube. Taking a look at these parts, the names become rather obvious. A bike frame is essentially a grouping of metal tubes that have been welded together to create a cohesive body. The head tube is at the very front of the bike, and it’s where the cockpit and front fork come together. The top tube is, well, at the top of the frame, while the down tube goes down from the head tube to the bottom bracket. While not specifically labeled here, the bottom bracket is the hole you see at the bottom of the frame into which the spindle for the crankset is inserted. (We’ll cover cranksets later.) Finally, the front triangle is finished by the seat tube—the tube into which the seat post is inserted.

The rear triangle can be said to consist of either two or three major parts—depending on your point of reference, and whether or not you’re looking at a hardtail or full suspension bike. Those parts are the chain stay, seat stay, and (again) the seat tube. The chain stay is the portion of the frame nearest the chain—it runs essentially parallel to the upper side of the chain loop. The seat stay generally runs from the seat tube down to the join the chain stay where the back wheel is mounted. The reason why the rear triangle may have two or three parts is basically because on a full suspension bike, the rear triangle is not welded to the frame, but rather mounted at pivot points to allow the rear triangle to move independently and utilized a rear shock.

Not sure what some of the words in this article mean? Be sure to check out our Glossary of MTB Terms and Slang.

Mountain Bike Components

Moving on to bike components, take a look at the illustration of a hardtail bike above. Let’s step through the parts one by one.

First up are the obvious pieces such as pedals, handlebars, tires, wheels, and the chain. Anyone with even the most basic exposure to cycling knows what these parts are. You may not understand how they work or how to repair or replace them yet, but they should be familiar enough to not need laborious explanations.

The handlebars and everything mounted to them are often referred to collectively as the cockpit. Handlebars should have a good pair of grips for your hands to hold onto through various environments and conditions. On most bikes, you’ll find the back brake lever and rear shifter mounted to the handlebar near the right-hand grip. The front brake lever and front shifter (if present) is typically mounted to the handlebar near the left-hand grip. You may not find a front shift on a modern mountain bike since many feature only a single gear up front—this is called a 1x drivetrain. NOTE: On bikes in Europe, and some other parts of the world, the cockpit controls are reversed. This makes sense if you think about it—they do drive on the opposite side of the road!

Handlebars on a bike are connected to the front fork with a piece called the stem. The stem is tightened around both the handlebars and a part of the front fork called the steerer tube, which is inserted through the bottom of the head tube. Then a top cap is tightened down on top of the steerer tube to help hold it all together. The front fork of a mountain bike most likely has a pair of shock-absorbing tubes that make up the front suspension. We’ll cover suspensions and how they work in a future post.

The front wheel is mounted to the front fork with an axle that is either a quick-release skewer or a thru axle. This axle is inserted through the wheel’s hub and tightened down by hand. The hub is that part of the wheel in the center where all of the spokes running from the wheel’s rim are laced into place. A disc brake system is mounted in two parts here—the brake actuator (containing brake pads) is mounted to the front fork, and the disc brake itself is mounted to the hub. Either a mechanical wire or hydraulic tube filled with mineral oil runs up from the brake actuator to the brake lever.

Quickly reviewed, the seat—also called a saddle—is mounted to the seat post which is then inserted into the seat tube of the bike frame. One of the newest and best innovations in recent memory is the introduction of a dropper post, which is a seat post whose height can be adjusted on the fly via a lever attached to the bike’s handlebars. We’ll talk more about dropper posts in a future article.

Moving on to what is possibly the most complex system of components on any bicycle, let’s look at the drivetrain. (A drivetrain is sometimes called a groupset.) Starting with your body’s final points of contact—the first two being the handlebars/grips and the seat—look at how the drivetrain is an interconnected mechanism meant to propel you forward.

The pedals are mounted to two long pieces of metal (or sometimes carbon) called the crank arms. The crank arms are connected together by a spindle which is inserted through the frame at the bottom bracket. The front gears, often called the chainrings (or collectively the crankset, chainset, or cogset) is mounted to the spindle via either a separate or integrated spider—the arms you see running from the center of the spindle and bolted to the chainrings.

The chain is threaded around the chainrings and runs through a pair of derailleurs found at the front and back. Derailleurs simply move the chain inward and outward as necessary depending on the gear chosen. Front derailleurs may not be present on many modern mountain bike setups.

Rear derailleurs are more complex, consisting of a mechanism that not only shifts the chain inward and outward but also changes the amount of tension placed on the chain depending on the size of the rear gear currently in use. A rear derailleur has a cage apparatus holding two pulleys—sometimes called jockeys. The lower pulley is the tension pulley, and it accomplishes its job by pulling backwards or forwards on the chain, so it’s often called the tension pulley or tensioner. The upper pulley guides the chain to the sprockets, so it is often called the guide pulley. Rear derailleurs are fitted with limit screws which can be adjusted to limit how far inward and outward the derailleur can shift. The derailleur is mounted to the frame with a small piece of metal called the derailleur hanger, which is meant to bend or break under pressure in order to prevent damage to the bike frame.

Collectively, the rear gear set, or sprockets, is usually called the cassette. The cassette is mounted to the rear wheel at the hub. As with the front wheel, the rear wheel also has a disc brake.

To wrap this up, let’s take a quick look at all of these parts on a full suspension bike, and note the major differences.

Right way, you can see that the parts and components are basically the same. The major difference is what gives a full suspension bike its name—the rear shock. As mentioned above, the rear triangle on a full suspension bike is not a welded-on piece, but rather the chain stay and seat stay are bolted to the main part of the frame at pivot points. Connected in various ways by different bike manufacturers you’ll find the rear shock, which is the main piece that gives a full suspension bike all of its cushiony goodness. We’ll go more in-depth about both front and rear suspensions in the future.

There you have it! Those are all the basic components you’ll find on pretty much any modern mountain bike. There’s a lot more we can go into, such as all the stuff mentioned above that we’ll dive into more deeply in the future, as well as discussion about the different sizes of wheels and how much travel some suspensions have compared to others. We’ll leave all of that for another time and place.

Do you have any questions or comments about frame parts and bike components? Is there anything we missed or said wrong? Let us know in the comments.

Have fun, ride smart, and keep shredding!

I Want to Mountain Bike but Don’t Know Where to Start

September 17, 2018 by NTX Trails Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, which means, at no cost to you, NTX Trails will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Your support of NTX Trails helps keep this site alive and up to date!

So, you think you want to take up mountain biking but you don’t have a clue how to get started. You’ve done some web searching and have discovered the sheer amount of information and advice out there is daunting—you’re overwhelmed. We get it. There’s a lot to learn and you’re having a hard time figuring out what Step 1 should be. You’ve come to the right place. We’re here to help.

The Bike

It may sound obvious, but to get started you’re going to need a bike—a mountain bike. The temptation some of you will feel is to either go cheap and run to a department store, buy something off the rack that looks like a mountain bike, and then head for the nearest trail. Others among you will go big (because you’ve done some research into MTB) and go to a bike shop, lay down $1,000 or more on a brand new bike, and then head for the nearest trail.

We cannot stress this enough: DO NOT DO EITHER OF THE ABOVE.

Both of the above scenarios are simply setting you up for frustration. In the case of a cheap department store bike you’re going to attempt to ride a bike on a trail that really isn’t meant for serious trail riding. It may do a fine job of getting you down a flat greenway, but once you try to take it onto a trail with any sort of elevation change or technical trail features (such as rocks and roots) a big box bike is not going to handle it very well.

Such a bike may honestly suffer repeated and potentially catastrophic mechanical failures and you’ll end up walking rather than riding your bike back to the trailhead. In addition, if you suffer a severe-enough mechanical failure, you’re putting your own body in danger. What happens if your cheap brakes give out on a downhill, or part of the bike breaks beneath you? It mean you’re going down, my friend.

Now, in the case of going big and spending a bunch of money on a bike, it may work out well for you in the long run, but you’re leaving the door open for a bad day. Why? Well, simply put, how do you even know you like mountain biking yet? Trust us, we’ve seen enthusiastic newbies lay down a big wad of cash on a new bike only to turn around and sell it at a huge loss later on because they discovered the MTB life just isn’t for them.

Even if you do end up sticking with the sport, a new bike isn’t always the best idea because of several factors. First, you’ll likely purchase a bike that’s more capable than your beginner-level skills can even benefit from—features such as full suspensions, carbon frames, and dropper posts. You’ll benefit from those eventually as your skills progress, but a novice rider on a beginner-level trail receives no benefit from those extra bells and whistles. Second, you don’t know what kind of rider you are yet or what types of trails you enjoy riding the most. Different bikes are better suited for different riders on various types of trails. Be patient and figure out what kind of bike will fit you best before spending a ton of money.

So what should you do instead of buying a new bike? If you’ve got a friend who rides trail, see if they have a spare or backup bike you could borrow for a while. If you don’t have an MTB friend then find the local club’s Facebook page and introduce yourself. Tell the members you’re new and want to give the sport a try, and find out if someone in the club has a bike you can borrow or rent for a few weeks for super-cheap.

If borrowing simply isn’t an option, then your next-best bet is to either find some demo days being held in your area where you can try out some bikes, or to hit up the local bike shops and see if you can rent different sizes and kinds of bikes until you find what fits you best. Once you’ve got that figured out, it’s time to see if you can find a similar used bike. You can search Craigslist and potentially have some success, or check out the Facebook Marketplace. Better yet, find out if there’s a bike-centric buy and sell group on Facebook that’s based in your area. Those of you in the Dallas/Fort Worth area are blessed to have PB&J [Pedals Bikes & Junk] where you’ll find fantastic deals on well-cared-for bikes. You can also try out Texas Bicycle Exchange.

When is it time to buy a brand new bike? Honestly, maybe never. You may be perfectly content and satisfied to buy used bikes for years to come. If you get that new bike itch, our advice is to be patient, save up for it, and use cash. You’ll be surprised how much more of a level-headed and well-considered purchase you’ll make when you make yourself wait rather than swiping a credit card or financing a new ride.

Not sure what some of the words in this article mean? Be sure to check out our Glossary of MTB Terms and Slang.

The Equipment

It should go without saying, but you’re going to need some basic equipment before you can take your bike out on the trail. Here’s a quick list of the absolute minimum you need before your tires hit the dirt:

Helmet—This is one of the places you can go fairly cheap at the beginning. All helmets sold in any store must meet minimum standards for safety and effectiveness. You can purchase a fancy and more-effective helmet later on as your skills progress.
Hydration—Depending on which direction you go, you’ll either need a water bottle and a bottle cage, or a hydration pack. Either way, you should always take drinking water with you when you hit the trail.
Eye Protection—Think about it, you’re going to be riding outside within a tree-covered area. This means there’s always the chance to take a stray branch or limb to the eye—especially when you crash. Hint: You will crash.
Spare Tube—You’ll need at least one spare tube whether you’re running tubeless or not. Even if running tubeless, you may encounter a puncture or slash big enough that your tire’s sealant can’t plug the hole. Make sure you purchase a tube that’s the correct size for your tires.
Bacon Strips or Plugs (if running tubeless tires)—A stop-gap measure before throwing a tube into a punctured tire that won’t seal up is to have a way to plug the hole. Two great options to consider are the Genuine Innovations Tubeless Tire Kit or the Dynaplug Ultralite Tubeless Tire Repair Kit.
Tire Levers—You’ll need a pair of these to get your tire off and back on the wheel in case you need to insert a new tube.
Handheld Pump and/or CO₂—You’ll need a way to pump your tire back up after you’ve repaired a flat. Small frame pumps are available that mount to your bike at the same place where your bottle cage mounts, or you can carry CO₂ inflators in your seat bag.
Multitool—You’ll need this is case something comes loose or if you need to make adjustments on your bike.
Seat Bag/Saddlebag—You’ll need a bag that straps underneath your seat to carry your spare tube and tools.

While arguably not absolutely necessary, the following items are highly recommended:

Riding Gloves—Gloves help protect your hands on the trail and help you maintain your grip when things get wet, muddy, or sweaty.
Riding Shorts/Chamois—You may not need this until you’re really starting to put down the miles, but a good quality pair of riding shorts and a chamois will go a long way in preventing soreness and chaffing.
Road iD—There’s both an identity bracelet you can wear to give emergency responders your basic information, as well as a GPS tracking app that lets family and friends know your current location and send out an alert if you’ve stopped moving for too long. Check out Road iD to learn more.

The Trails

Now that you’ve got your equipment together, do you know where to ride? Before you answer “yes” to that question, ask another question first: Do you know where to ride that fits your novice skill level? Like snow skiing slopes, mountain bike trails are graded from easiest to expert using a similar system of green circles, blue squares, and black diamonds. Nothing will ruin your day more than attempting to ride a double-black diamond by mistake and hurting yourself first time out.

Again, this is a situation where having a friend who’s already a mountain biker is going to be the absolute best option available. A seasoned rider who’s familiar with local trails is going to be best-suited to help you get started. They’ll likely offer to load up your bike, drive you to the trail, and lead you through to show you how it’s done.

Another great option is to find a beginner clinic being held in your area. In the Dallas/Fort Worth area, the Dallas Off-Road Bicycle Association holds beginner clinics almost monthly. Apart from a friend, there’s no better way to get started riding the trails. Get in touch with the local off-road cycling club in your area and find out if they offer beginner or skills clinics.

A third option is to find the local bike shops in your area and discover if they organize group rides. These shops often host no-drop rides on a weekly basis at a local trail. (No-drop means they won’t leave anyone in the group behind, so it’s a great option for a beginner.)

Mountain biking is a great hobby to do with other people, so we highly recommend gathering some regular riding buddies, especially when you’re a newbie. If you’ve absolutely got to go solo as a new rider, find out where the local greenways and beginner-level trails are located in your area. Check your local off-road cycling club’s listings, or use an app such as Trailforks or MTB Project.

There’s so much more we could cover, but that’s more than enough to get you started. Do you have questions? Post a comment below. Are you a seasoned rider with advice for new riders? We’d love to hear from you as well.

Have fun, ride smart, and keep shredding!

Why Can’t I Ride Wet Trails?

September 10, 2018 by NTX Trails Leave a Comment

Some areas of the world have mountain bike trails that are closed when wet. Have you ever wondered why? We know it’s a real drag when you want to ride and all the local trails are closed, and it may be tempting at times to go ahead and ride anyway. This may be doubly-tempting when it’s been a day or two since the last rain storm, so surely the trail is good enough. “What’s the worst that can happen?” you might ask.

Here are our top reasons why you should be patient and wait until the trail steward opens the trail back up after it’s gotten wet.

1. Learning About Soil Types

Up in the Pacific Northwest or in many UK locales, the soil is loamy and deals with water extremely well. This isn’t true for all soils, particularly soils like we have here in much of North Texas. The soil around here is mostly clay, so rather than absorbing the water it turns into something like what you’d find on a potter’s wheel—thick, sticky, and highly shape-holding.

So, problem number one with attempting to ride a wet, clay-based trail is that the mud will cake your tires so quickly and completely that your ride will be over in less than a minute. And if you think you can easily scrape that mud off with your shoe or a stick, think again. This kind of thick clay pretty much has to be blasted off with a water hose and sprayer.

The larger problem is trail damage. Again, unlike loam, wet clay doesn’t sink back down level with the surface around it. Instead, it tends to retain the shape of whatever it last came into contact with—your shoe, your tire, your dog’s paws. This means that once the trail drys out, that clay is going to harden into that same shape, deforming the trail surface to create ruts.

Those who ride wet trails and cause such damage are quick to cry out, “Why don’t we just pave the trails then? This is called mountain biking for a reason. It’s not supposed to be smooth and easy!” Well, that person is not only a selfish turd who thinks the trail is only there for their own personal enjoyment, they’ve also never shown up for a trail work day to find out how hard it is to bust those dried ruts, nor do they care that those ruts contribute to erosion of the trail, destroy the trail’s flow, and cause others riders to crash.

2. Eroding the Trail

Guess what? Trails themselves are not (typically) natural occurrences, so their very existence can lead to erosion issues if not built and maintained properly. Proper care is not only the responsibility of the land manager and trail steward, but is shared by all of us who bike and hike those trails.

In the case of ruts, low spots are created on the trail that trap water that would otherwise naturally run off. Over time, this further deepens and widens the ruts to form even wider canyons that can more easily throw even seasoned riders over their bars. Water retention also contributes to erosion of the trail, increasing the longterm damage done.

In addition, less-skilled riders will avoid these ruts by riding around them—sometimes off of the trail completely if necessary—which leads to another problem.

3. Keeping it Singletrack

When riders naturally take easier routes around ruts and gouges the trail is widened over time. What was once a nice loop of singletrack becomes a wide mess that can not only destroy the flow of a trail, but can endanger the surrounding environment.

One of the selling points of trail building to local, county, and state governments is that trails have low impact on the environment. This is only true when hikers and riders stick to the trail. When we cut our own alternate lines with our tires, we’re contributing to trail widening and cause more impact on the natural environment in which the trail exists.

PRO TIP: If you’re riding an open trail and encounter a stray puddle, make sure to ride through it. Trust that the stewards knew what they were doing when they opened the trail, so they likely know where the low spots are and where water may be standing. Do your part to not widen the trail and ride through—not around—such puddles.

4. Dumbing Down the Trail

Riding a wet trail increases the possibility of damaging the terrain by dislodging natural technical trail features such roots and rocks. That rocky climb you enjoy challenging your skills with? If you ride it wet then those rocks can be loosened or dislodged completely, which will dumb down your favorite technical climb over time. Water can wash out natural trail features such as rough terrain, so don’t contribute to the issue by riding through soft, mushy soil.

The same goes for man made features. In many cases these features were designed to be low impact and built to be ridden in dry conditions, meaning they aren’t cemented or otherwise permanently attached to the ground. When you hit a wooden feature when it’s wet, you run the risk of sliding it out of place, causing more work for the stewards and endangering riders who come behind you.

5. Damaging Your Bike

Not only will clay and mud stick to your tires, but imagine that same caked mess all over your drivetrain. If that goop is getting all over your sprockets, you can be sure it’s making its way between your brake pads as well as into your front fork, rear shock, and bottom bracket.

None of this is too big of a deal if you can give your bike a wash pretty quickly, but this type of mud deposits sand and grit over time. That grit works its way into your brake pads, shocks, and bearing and wears them down like sandpaper. Riding this type of soil and getting it all over your components is simply shortening the life of your bike and increasing how much you’ll spend on bike maintenance.

Consider Volunteering

We challenge you to volunteer for some trail maintenance days in the near future. We guarantee if you spend a few hours to help the trail steward maintain and repair your favorite local trail, you’ll never be tempted to ride it wet ever again.

For an even more-detailed look at the damage riding wet trails can cause, check out Sustainable Trails from Lebanon Hills.

Check out this great video for a fun look at why you shouldn’t ride closed, wet trails.

What do you think? Have we missed any reasons why you shouldn’t ride wet trails? Disagree with any of these reasons? Let us know in the comments—just keep it classy!

Have fun, ride smart, and keep shredding!

10 Ways to Help Your Favorite Local MTB Trail

September 3, 2018 by NTX Trails Leave a Comment

What’s the trail you tend to ride most often because you love it—because it’s your favorite local trail by far? You’ll drive a little extra distance when you have the time to get to that trail because of your deep affection. Every time your riding buddies ask what trail they should go ride, the name of that trail is always the first one that comes to mind. Whatever your reasons for loving that trail—the flow, the technical challenges, the climbs, the beauty—you find yourself riding that trail more than any other.

But what can you do to make your trail better? Check out this list of ideas and determine to do as many of them as you’re able to accomplish.

1. Volunteer for Trail Work

Guess what? Every trail needs regular love and care to stay awesome, and that usually means hard work put in by volunteers. Most trails—particularly trails in North Texas—are maintained by volunteer clubs and organizations who appoint local trail stewards to oversee and maintain trails in their area. Those trail stewards can’t maintain several miles of trail alone, and are very dependent upon assistant stewards and other volunteers who’ll show up regularly to help bust ruts, fill crack and holes, prune face slappers, and repair damage and erosion.

Get to know your favorite trail’s steward and ask them how you can help with trail maintenance. Many trail stewards schedule regular work days, and you’ll find this is often the best time to show up. There’s strength in numbers, and you’ll be amazed how much you can accomplish when a dozen or more volunteers show up at once and give the trail some TLC for a few hours. Will you have to give up a morning of riding? Yes, but it’s worth it. The gratification of riding a section of trail you helped maintain is a pretty cool. You’ll probably feel faster than ever before as you rip though a section of your own handiwork.

Beyond regular work days, ask the trail steward if there are ways you can perform trail maintenance on your own time. Riders are often encouraged to periodically ride the trail with a pair of compact loppers in their hydration pack and trim face slappers as they go along. You might also consider carrying a pocket chainsaw to help clear downed trees—just make sure you know the trail well enough to know the difference between a purposefully-placed technical trail feature and a fallen tree.

Some stewards may allow you to do more serious maintenance without direct supervision, such as filling holes and cracks, repairing berms, or caring for technical trail features. Whatever you do, don’t ever dumb down the trail by removing roots, rocks, or other natural obstacles. You’re not doing anyone any favors by making the trail easier to ride, but rather you’re destroying an opportunity for riders to progress in their skills. On top of all this, removing roots can kill the trees, while removing either roots or rocks can speed erosion. If you feel the need to dumb down a trail, you’re participating in the wrong hobby.

2. Join Your Local Club

As mentioned above, most trails are built and/or maintained by local off-road cycling clubs. For example, in the greater Dallas area, DORBA (Dallas Off-Road Bicycling Association) has been granted the responsibility for advocating and maintaining several trails across more than four counties, totaling several hundred miles. Membership in the club is only $35 per year for and individual or $55 for a family. All of DORBA’s board members are volunteers, so 100% of membership dues go back toward supporting local trails in one way or another—either through purchasing gas, tools, and equipment to maintain those trails, paying for events and races that increase community awareness of the trails, or even simply feeding volunteers who show up for work days.

In addition to the monetary impact your membership might have on your favorite trail, the truth here again is sheer strength in numbers. When your local club representatives go and speak to local city councils, land owners and managers, or business executives, the membership size can make a favorable impression. Think about it. If your club’s trail advocacy director stands before a city council and tells them there are hundreds—perhaps thousands—of members who might ride a bike trail in their city, it makes that council sit up and pay attention. Why? Because potential trail riders means potential spenders at local restaurants, gas stations, and other establishments. Spending means sales tax revenue. A council is much more likely to support a trail if they can see how it will benefit their budget’s bottom line.

A large club can also shake the trees a bit better for corporate sponsors. Local bike shops often support local riding clubs, and the bigger the club the bigger their potential support. Why? Again, it’s about their bottom line. If they can get their name in front of hundreds or thousands of bike club members in a positive way—if they can build and maintain a positive reputation with those club members—it means those clubs members are more likely to purchase a gear or a new bike at that shop. It’s really a win-win relationship for both the club and the bike shop.

3. Donate Money, Tools, or Other Needs

So you’ve done the right thing and joined your local club, but you just can’t seem to work out the time in your schedule to attend a regular work day. Hey, it happens. We know you’ll go when you can, but since it’s not in the cards at the moment why not give a little extra money to help the stewards keep your favorite trail nice and fresh. Rather than simply ordering a new McLeod from Amazon—though it’s a great trail maintenance tool—find out what the stewards really need. It could be that their greatest current need is new wood to repair a janky boardwalk or new stain for the information kiosk.

4. Report Issues to the Trail Steward

How many times have you ridden a trail and come across an issue that needs to be addressed. It could be something as minor as a hole starting to develop or a section in need of a good trim, or it might be a major problem such as a large fallen tree or outright vandalism. When you see these issues, don’t just ride on by and assume someone will take care of them, take the time to report the issue.

The best practice for reporting an issue is to snap a picture of the problem with your cell phone and post it on the trail’s Facebook page along with the problem’s location. Grab the GPS coordinates if possible, or simply make sure you can describe the location as accurately as possible in your report. For major issues, make your report right there on the spot if you can to make sure you don’t forget once you get back to your car. If your trail doesn’t have a Facebook page, find out how to report issues to the trail steward and make your report as soon as possible.

5. Be a Regular Trail Facebook Page Commenter

As mentioned above, many trails have their own dedicated Facebook page in which to share trail statuses and build community. If you haven’t already, join your favorite trail’s page and get involved in discussions. In the DORBA system, most of the trail have their own page, and some of them are very active. Not only do the members discuss trail conditions, but they share information about group rides, bike maintenance, riding advice, photo sharing, and much more.

If your favorite trail doesn’t have a Facebook page, then start one! Talk to the trail steward first and see if they want to be an admin on the page. If they do, volunteer to get it set up for them and then turn over the keys to the page. If they’re not in favor of being an admin, there’s nothing stopping you from starting one up yourself. Just be respectful, supportive, informative, and positive.

6. Ride Your Favorite Trail Often

I doubt you need to be encouraged to ride your favorite trail more often, but consider the impact your regular presence can have at the trail. Make yourself an unofficial ambassador for the trail and greet other riders when you see them at the trailhead or along your ride. Be courteous as always and see if they need any help, but also offer to trail guide folks around if you discover they’re new to the trail.

This means the more often you ride the trail, the more familiar you will be with all the technical trail features, bypasses, best lines, and alternate lines. Offer to help newer riders ride within their skill set by offering advice based on your intimate knowledge of the trail. Offer to help riders session areas where they’re struggling or simply want to get better.

And remember that Facebook page? As a trail ambassador, you should post regularly when you’re going to head out to the trail and invite others to join you. Sure, we understand that sometimes you want to ride by yourself, but be open to leading or organizing impromptu group rides. You’ll have a ton of fun showing off your favorite trail.

7. Adopt Your Favorite Trail’s MTB Project and Trailforks Listings

As a regular rider, you’re in a fantastic position to help maintain the accuracy of your favorite trail’s listings on MTB Project and Trailforks. Both of these sites are fantastic resources for riders who are scouting new trail to ride, but since they’re crowdsourced the information can sometimes be inaccurate. Learn how to format and upload your GPS data to make sure the trail maps are accurate—especially if there have been recent extensions or reroutes to the trail.

You can also freshen up the trail descriptions, add new or better images of the trailhead and trail, and provide regular updates about trail conditions after each ride. If you use Strava, you can even connect your account to Trailforks and it will record your rides there as well. You can add trail condition reports to your uploaded ride.

8. Educate Fellow Riders

Along with your newfound role as trail ambassador comes an additional responsibility—that of educating your fellow riders. You can’t control other riders’ actions, but you can do your part to inform them about bike safety and trail etiquette. Encourage other riders to always wear a helmet. Teach them how they should act when riding the trail—such as move off the trail when stopped, and announce yourself if you need to pass. Pour all the things you’ve learned over the years into less experienced riders. It will make the experience more pleasurable for everyone.

Then there’s the biggie. Teach other riders that it’s never ok to dumb down the trail. Again, teach them how to ride over a tough obstacle or encourage them to just walk their bike until they build their skills. Just make sure you emphasize they should never under any circumstances attempt to remove a feature from the trail. If they don’t know the difference between removing a fallen tree and digging up a rock, take the time to educate them.

9. Volunteer at Local Events, Races, and Group Rides

We come back to the theme of volunteering some of your time. If you really want to increase awareness of your favorite trail try to show up and help at events held there. We encourage you to race the trail when you can, but if you’re not racing and you’ve got the time, why not volunteer to help? It’s not just races you could help out at. DORBA holds other events such as drop-in rides, and they often need people to lead group rides, flip burgers, or help new members sign up.

If your club isn’t doing events like that, why don’t you contact the board and see if you can organize one at your favorite trail. Chances are, if you’ll put in a good bulk of the work, they might jump at the chance.

10. Shop Local

Finally, make every effort to shop locally. As mentioned above, many bike shops give back to the cycling community through donations to local cycling clubs. So, every time you choose to shop locally rather than grabbing a better deal online, a small portion of your purchase ends helping the trail you love. We won’t get into the debate of whether you should only shop at small mom-and-pop stores or a large retail giants. Both have their place, and both often give back to the trails in their own way and in their own measure. (For instance, REI has been known to give yearly grants totaling several thousand dollars for projects at local trails in the Dallas/Ft Worth area.)

Some shops not only give back monetarily, but some even offer discounts or dividends to local club members. There are shops in the DORBA area that will throw in a free club membership when you purchase a bike worth $1,000 or more. A handful of these shops even organize and lead weekly group rides at local trails. Bike shop owners and managers are often some of the best trail advocates around. It’s only right to help support them as they help support the trails we love.